Chair Rail “Room Prep & Installation Part 2″

This post was written by Caldo on December 29, 2008
Posted Under: How To

davezillionHopefully the room you’re looking to spruce up has already taken on some new life.  Next step is to install the trim. Before you begin cutting and nailing, match the finish of the chair rail trim with the trim in the rest of the room.  If the trim in the rest of the room is either painted or stained, you’ll want to match it with that color.  If you’re painting the trim, you’ll want to prime the wood first, unless you’ve purchased pre-primed trim. Then apply two coats of the finish paint.  If you’re staining the trim you’re going to put on as many coats of stain needed to match. You’ll put the final coats of polyurethane on once the trim is installed.

 

There are lots of tools on the shelves out there that could be used for this part of the project.  Compressors, air nailers, and compound miter saws are all higher end tools that are made for this type of work but are also overkill for this particular project. Don’t get me wrong, if you own those tools or have access to them, and know how to operate them, then go ahead, have a blast.  Those high-end tools will make the project a little easier, but remember what was discussed in the “Is It Really Worth It” blog on December 9, 2008. With that in mind, the following is a list of the basic tools needed to complete the project:

 

·        Miter box and finish hand saw (Preferably an 8 inch Power Miter saw can be purchased for under $100)

·        Tape Measure Caldo’s Staples

·        Hammer Caldo’s Staples

·        Finish Nails

·        Stud Finder Caldo’s Staples

·        Level Caldo’s Staples

·        Nail Set

·        Wood putty/fill (paintable or stainable depending on your finish)

 

Now I’ll take you step by step through the next phase which includes marking the wall for proper height and level, and also where to nail the trim.  Measuring and cutting the trim and finally the installation of the trim on the wall and finishing the job.  Below are some visuals of the cuts you will need to complete for the installation.

 

45-degree-exterior845 degree exterior cut

                              45-degree-interior445 degree interior cut

90 degree cut90 degree cut for butting other trim

 

·        Start with the original height of the top of the trim that was chosen prior to painting.

·        Using your tape measure, make multiple marks at the desired height around the entire room.  Be sure to use pencil and keep the marks light and small.  These marks will be your guide when setting the trim in place before nailing.

·        Utilizing your stud finder, place marks around the entire room where the studs are located.  Be sure to use pencil and keep the marks light and small.  These marks will be your guide when nailing the trim.  Nailing the trim to a stud will ensure it is properly secured.

·        Measure the length of wall of the first area for the trim to be placed.  You’re going to want to make sure you have the correct measurement.  It’s always a good idea to double check.

·        Almost all of your cuts will be either a 90° angle for areas butting up to window or door trim or 45° angel for an interior or exterior corner cut.  If your room has an angle that is not a normal 90° you will need to measure the angle and then divide in half to reach the necessary angle for your cut.

 ·        After capturing the correct measurement, you should always begin with one of the ends of the trim cut to its finished angle before marking the trim board to length. It’s easier to work with one mark to cut on rather than two.

·        Mark your length about 1/8 of an inch longer than the measurement.  You can always go back and take a little more off if it’s too long.  You can’t put it back on if you cut it two short.

·        Place the trim board that’s been cut to length on the wall and align with top of the trim with the marks made in the prior steps. Once in place you’ll want to utilize your level to ensure proper installation. (If you have someone available, it’s a big help to have an extra pair of hands when actually nailing the trim to the wall.)

·        Utilizing your hammer and finish nails, attach the trim to the wall.  Place the nails directly in line with the marks that you have made identifying the studs.  Be careful not to hammer the nails in too far.  Leave them exposed about 1/8 of an inch.  If you go to far the hammer may dent the trim.  You’ll go back and set the nails once all the trim is installed.

·        Repeat the previous six steps until all your trim is installed.

·        Utilizing you hammer and nail set, go back to each finish nail and set the nail about 1/8 of an inch below the surface of the trim.

·        Using the appropriate wood putty, fill in all nail holes where you have set the nails.  With the same putty, fill in any areas (corners or butted ends) where there is a gap where the trim meets.

·        Once the putty has dried, use some very fine sand paper to smooth out any rough residue.

·        If you have stained your trim, you will need to touch up the areas that have been filled with putty using the appropriate stain.

·        Now finish your new trim with a couple of coats of polyurethane matching the sheen to the other trim in the room.  Be sure to sand lightly in between coats once the polyurethane has cured.  (follow directions on the can)

·        If you have painted your trim, simply touch up the areas that have been filled with putty with a couple of coats of paint.

 

That’s it, you’re done!!!!!!!!!  Re-hang the pictures you took down a couple of days ago then get a hold of your beverage of choice and step back and enjoy the fruits of you labor.

 

NICE JOB

 

Caldo’s here to give you a virtual hand with all of your home projects. Send him questions at caldo@davezillion.com

 

 

Reader Comments

Any thoughts on using glue vs. finishing nails? It eliminates the need for caulking, but I’m worried about it holding up long term.

#1 
Written By Keith on December 30th, 2008 @ 7:58 am

Believe it or not, glue is usually better than nails as far as its abilitiy to keep trim in place. That is as long as you are using the correct type of construction adhesive. The main thing to worry about when using an adhesive for a job like this would be if you ever decide that you want to remove the trim. With finish nails the removal is fairly simple. A small pry bar and hammer and your done in a few minutes. If you attempt to remove trim that has been installed with adhesive you may be looking at a much bigger job. The time for just the removal will be much longer and you will definately have some drywall damage that will need timely repair. In the end, the extra time spent on the front end to putty the holes may be worth the aggravation avoided some day down the line.
Hope this information gave a little more insight and was of some assistance to you!!

Caldo

#2 
Written By Caldo on January 5th, 2009 @ 9:05 pm

Very nice blog. I totally agree with your thoughts.

#3 
Written By ArianaKers on May 13th, 2009 @ 7:44 am

Great post! Just wanted to let you know you have a new subscriber- me!

#4 
Written By ApplyCreditCards on May 28th, 2009 @ 11:23 pm

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